1/19/2023 0 Comments Cubify cube proHere is a circuit diagram with the pin outs on it. This extruder assembly contains a thermostat to but the power to the extruders if they over heat! That is right I said thermostat (not thermistor) Pin 10 is gnd for build platform cooling fan (5v)īefore I continue with the 8 pin connector it important to understand the way the power resistors are wired to the thermostat as we are not interested in any of that it leaves us with: Pins 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8, 12,13,14,15 are not required and are use for self levelling and making sure the print head are in place (switches) and powering LEDs. With he metal contact on the connector face DOWN) pins 1 (left) to 15 (right) If you don't want to cut into the wiring then luckily all the components (eg power resistors, thermistors fans ect are actually crimped to the wiring harness but this is deep inside the extruder so I will cover this later (plus I don't have any good pictures of this yet) along with a circuit diagram of this slightly strange yet safer extruder set-up! If you are OK with splicing into the cabling on this printer you do not need to take the extruder apart and I will show you the pin outs for the wires that we need. This should give you access to the extruder! To get access to the extruder you will need to remove the following screw and lift off the top cover WARNING the LCD touch screen is connected buy a short ribbon cable so dont pull to hard you need to disconnect it befor you can completly remove the front cover!Īnd that is it! the front cover should now be off and your printer now resembles something like a broken C3PO! Once you manage to get your fingers or a flat head screw driver in there you can slide the front of there is one receptacle on each side (left and right) here are more pics The clips receptacle is on the grey cover that protects the extruder on the top. This part is tricky to take a picture of so i have taken it apart to show you where the clips are The clips are in the upper corners of the front cover (the one with the LCD on) Next remove the screws that hold the cartridges in place We will start by taking the front panel off (the rear is slightly more involved)įeet are a little tricky just need a flat head screwdriver to remove the inner pin once this is out set of pliers can pull the feet off Remove the 4 screw and feet in the below image (i have already removed them annoyingly and not in an appropriate stage in the build to put it all back together no doubt will update the image once I have though! Please excuse the poor photography as I am not a photographer :-D but I'm lazy so soldered stuff together).Ģ.5mm or 0.01 inch Allen key ( Imperial) yes the sods use both imperial and metric hex head screw!!Ī set of small torx (not sure what sizes) smiler size to the hex above though. Soldering iron and solder (if you want to undo the crimps and re-crimp them then this is optional. Small cable ties (yes this is a requirement if you want the pretty looking shell to go back on again more on this later). Some 22/24 AWG (american wire gauge) wire preferable 4 colours makes life easier. Rumba or RAMPS 1.4 with 24v conversion (more on this later). P.s I'm dyslexic so please any mods want to proof read this feel free I wont mind people spell checking posts if there is enough demand i will take it all apart again and take pics the other good new is i have not needed to cut into or inter fear with ANY of the electronics the cube comes with so it should be relativity east putting it back to original (which is important to me as the thing is over £900 and fully working when I started this project! bad news is I have not taken many pictures :S but I have taken some so ill start posting it all shortly. Okay so good news and bad new good news is that I have figured out ALL of the components required to convert this into a fully working RepRap and will post finding shortly.
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